A nation quiets, then rejoices

(Originally posted June 9, 2006)

It’s been said that the World Cup can clear streets.

A half-hour before Germany’s cup opening match in Munich against Costa Rica, an eerie silence descended on Cologne. The few people and cars on the street all seemed to be rushing toward the nearest television. I guess I was expecting a party atmosphere as the first match approached. Instead, all of Germany seems to be holding its breath.

As Amy and I walked from our hotel, toward the center of Cologne, every storefront has a TV in the window and people are crowded around, their heads craning for any view at all. Pubs were completely full, with patrons outside pressing their faces against the windows.

Near the city’s giant, ancient cathedral, cup organizers have set up a giant screen so fans can watch all the matches. We can’t get anywhere close. German fans stood shoulder-to-shoulder in the street. Thousands of flags sprang up from the crowd. Still, the crowd noise stays at a low murmur – until the German national anthem begins playing. With one voice, the crowd sings. We can’t squeeze close enough to a television to see the World Cup’s opening kickoff, but the noise of the crowd told us when it happens. When Germany scores early in the match, a giant cry shot though the downtown. Church bells rang.

Amy and I escaped the crowd and wandered back toward our hotel, desperate to find a pub where we could watch the game. We made our way back to an Irish pub we had eaten at earlier in the day where we can watch the games in English. By the time we get inside, three goals have been scored. Still, the scene on the street was worth missing most of the first half. And fortunately, the second half proved just as interested as Costa Rica put up a valiant fight before falling 4-2 to Germans. (Plus, inside the pub, drunk England fans taunted every German misstep with loud off-color songs.)

After the match, the streets around our hotel – empty two hours before — flooded with people waving flags and honking their car horns. People partied on every corner.

Whew…and this is only our first day here. Two more weeks to go.